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Recently I was uncomfortable during an unusual September heat wave, when I received this Instagram video (https://www.instagram.com/reel/CwKqYeUMyag/), a helicopter delivering beer to rifugios in the Dolomite mountains of northern Italy. It spawned memories of skiing this year in Val Gardena and Cortina d’Ampezzo. The winter of 2023 dumped epic snow in the Rockies but the European Alps had little snow . However, we were not disappointed – “i dolomiti esperienza” was SPETTOCOLARE (spectacular). Quite different than skiing the Rockies’ bottomless powder, skiing in Europe is about the total experience. It’s touring on alpine skis from village to village while enjoying the culture, the people, the food and “la dolce vita” (the sweet life).

After a weekend in Milan to attend Serie A football match (Inter vs Lecce), we arrived in Selva, small village in the Val Gardena valley, a center for winter sports. Located close to the Austrian border, the German influence is strong. For example, everything has two names – Val Gardena (Italian) and Groden(German). The Apres-ski is loud pubs with many Germans and Austrians, the food is German style (ie schnitzel) and the beer is flowing.

Beer (not wine) is drink of choice in Val Gardena.
Rifugios (mountain huts) serving food and drink
are everywhere, even trailside.

Farther from Austrian border is Cortina d’Ampezzo, favorite ski town for Italians. Winter 2022 had limited snowfall but every run was open in mid-March; incredible snow-making.
No shortage of snow on this grand slalom run used in 1956 Olympics. After 70 years Winter Olympics returns to Cortina in 2026.
Rifugios at the top of ski lifts were frequent lunch spots.
A plate of fresh pasta cost 10 euros, a bottle of local wine 4 eu.

And the wines… Alto Adige is the appellation (DOC) around Bolzano. Wine production is primarily whites (64%) and is best known for Pinot Grigio and Gewurztraminer. The red wines include Pinot Noir and two local varietals; Lagrein (similar to Barbera) and Schiava (Beaujolais like).

OBERMOSER Lagrein 2018-“congenial, straightforward wines that can be deliciously plummy, earthy and chewy, dark and full-bodied but not heavy, with a pronounced minerally edge” says NY Times.

Be careful what you ask for!
“Martini per favore” (martini please) is a cocktail of
Martini & Rossi Bianco Vermouth WITHOUT gin or vodka.

Cheers, Bob the WineGuy
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